How to mod your TS9
First take it apart!
Remove the battery cover and the 4 Phillips screws holding the base. Pull the base off along with the black plastic shield. Remove the single Phillips screw holding the circuit board. The circuit board is now free.
Identify the components !
The TS9 components, unlike on the TS5 circuit board, are not marked so you will have to rely on the description of the location and the TS9 circuit board picture:
1-TA75558P op amp chip - is the only chip on the board. You will replace it with the 8 pin socket and JRC4558D op amp chip.
2-470 ohm (yellow-purple-brown-gold) resistor - is on the furthest edge across from the chip, next to a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. You will replace it with the carbon comp 100 ohm (brown-black-brown-gold) resistor.
3-100K ohm (brown-back-yellow-gold) resistor - is on the opposite side of the 10uF electrolytic capacitor mentioned above. You will replace it with the carbon comp 10K ohm (brown-black-orange-gold) resistor.
4-.047uF capacitor (usually a yellowish/greenish 'chiclet' type marked 473K) (optional) - it's one of the 2 473K capacitors closest to the chip. It's the one right next to a 203K capacitor. You will replace it with the poly film .1uF capacitor (usually a green or yellowish/greenish 'chiclet' type often marked 104K).
TS9 circuit board picture (chip and resistors, items 1-3, have already been swapped)
The first 3 component changes (IC1, R34, R35) are generally referred to as the TS808 mod. Using carbon comp resistors along with the capacitor change (R34, R35, C10) is sometimes referred to as the brown mod. You could go out and get carbon comps and change all the resistors, but changing these 2 are supposed to give the most bang for the buck. The capacitor change is listed as optional since this change is not part of the original TS808 spec. It gives the box more bass. Maybe you want more bass or maybe you don't. I personally like the extra bass and am guessing the majority of you will too.
Get out the soldering iron!
Get a de-soldering bulb. Or use a de-soldering braid if you are handy with that. If you can, secure the circuit board so you can use both hands. Get as much solder off the leads of all the components you plan to change. Caution: Do not try to bend or push the component leads without the solder in a melted state! The copper on the circuit board separates from the board and will tear off very easily (take it from someone who has done it!). I suggest you try to push the component leads through using the soldering tip itself, and then use tweezers or needle-nose pliers at the same time to help wiggle it through. The chip is toughest to get out. Make sure you note the orientation of the chip before you free it from the board.
Installing the new components is much easier than taking off the old ones. Make sure all the holes are free of solder so that the components leads can slide fairly easily into them. If you force them through, you run the risk of separating the copper from the board and tearing it.
The new capacitor is much bigger than the one it is replacing. Just pull both leads through as far as you can and press the capacitor down a bit so it sits close to the board. Solder everything up and clip the extra lead lengths down close to the board.
Make sure you are grounded before touching the chip, or at least recently grounded (remember touching something metallic after rubbing your feet on the carpet when you were a kid?). Static electricity can ruin a perfectly good chip. Hopefully you noted the orientation of the old chip because the new one most be oriented the same way or it will blow immediately when you turn it on. Refer to the TS9 circuit board picture if needed. There is a notch in the chip that should face towards the edge of the board, and the lettering on the chip should read the same direction as most of the lettering on the board. To plug it into the socket, line up 4 of the leads on one side first, then the other 4. Once you are confident that the leads are lined up start pushing it in place. Be careful not to bend any of the pins.
Test it out!
Before you put it back together, try it out. Make sure the board is not sitting on anything metallic like an amp corner or handle. If it doesn't work, here are some checkpoints:
- make sure the battery is hooked up and is not dead
- make sure the battery lead is not damaged
- check all the solder jobs for cold solder joints or spillover
- check chip orientation
Re-assemble and you're done!